ETA movement


The importance of the movement for the entire watch is well known, and without the movement, the watch will not work. What are the movements of the watches? Just follow the blogger to have a profound understanding about watch movements knowledge in different types.

  1. Manual Winding Movement,the earliest movement spring must be through “human intervention”, the wearer must manually rotate the clockwork on the crown to work normally, usually winding up in 24 hours. The hand-wound movement was also the earliest machine, and its ancestors used it on pocket watches as early as the 15th century. It is now also used by some high-end brands, but more wearers always forget the “winding” so that “stopping” their time.

  1. The Self-winding(Automatic) Movement is wound by the motion of the watch. Through a swinging oscillating operation, the spring of the watch is slowly tightened, and the watch realizes the effect of “self-running”. The self-winding movement is now the choice of most mechanical watches. As long as it is worn every day, there is no need to wind up, and the hairspring that is evenly stretched with the movement is more conducive to the accuracy of time.

  1. When it comes to Quartz Movements, we must first mention the “quartz crisis” of the 1970s and 1980s. It was the birth of it that shocked the entire Swiss watch industry, causing many European mechanical watch factories to declare bankruptcy, ending uptheir watchmaking careers, it is also precisely because of its existence urging the birth of the “Swatch” watch, it can be said that a generation is stronger than a generation.

The quartz movement, which was made by W.A Mason in the 1920s, was later put into production by the Japanese SEIKO Company in 1969. Its low cost, extremely high accuracy time and more additional features have become people’s the first choice when purchasing watches, and it has also caused a huge impact on the mechanical watches that have been used for a long time.

In fact, the principle of the quartz movement is that the balance without oscillation is used as a metronome, but only a quartz oscillator, which oscillates through electric energy (battery). There are a lot of women’s models choosing quartz movements from the perspective of thickness and aesthetics.

  1. The self-produced movement of the watchmaking workshop may be a manual winding movement, or it may be an automatic movement, which refers to the key parts of the movement, such as the main clamping plate, the bridge and the splint, all of them areself-produced by the workshop themselves, so they can name the model by themselves.

The Swatch Group’s ETA movement was the main supplier of many brands before, but in 2002,  Swatch Group announced that it would no longer supply ETA’s blank movement (many brands will use ETA’s blank movement to process, then advocating it is a self-produced movement), which led to the emergence of many watchmaking workshops.

Brands Movements

ETA, the full name of ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse, is a Swiss manufacturer of blank movements, including mechanical/quartz watches and clock movements, which is owned by the Swiss Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch group, ETA itself was merged and acquired by a number of movement factories, including the famous Adolf Schild (AS), Valjoux, Unitas and so on.

ETA’s main product is focused on mechanical movements, and many different types are produced. In addition to the Swatch Group’s watch brands (such as Longines, Omega, Swatch and Tissot), it is also a supplier of watch manufacturers’ movements. For example, Breitling, Fortis, Innag, Plum, etc., even Rolex, ETA movements have appeared in their products (Rolex used the Valjoux movement in its Daytona series), while IWC, Oris, TAG Heuer and Tudor and others used a movement modified based on the ETA movement.

Miyota is the manufacturer of the blank movement under the Japan Citizen Watch, one of the world’s largest blank clock manufacturers. Established in 1959, the name is “Miyota Precision Co. Ltd.” In 1991, it was renamed Miyota Co. Ltd. In 2005, through the exchange of equipment, it became a subsidiary of Citizen Watch, and changed its name to the current one.

Miyota’s main products are quartz or mechanical watch movements, quartz crystal oscillators, LCD backlights, CMOS sensors and micro LCDs.

Through the knowledge of these movements, it can be seen that no matter which kind of movement, the core of the watch’s aura and life is given, and the hundreds of wheel trains and parts inside are meticulously matched, so that the watch can keep running.

It is well known that the core of the watch lies in the movement, which is as important as the heart of the human body. The movement greatly determines the performance of a watch. Here a brief talk on the features of ETA movement and three types of self-made movements helps you know about watches more or less.
ETA movement
ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse is the largest manufacturer in manufacturing finished movements and semi-finished movements all over the world. ETA monopolizes more than 85% movement output in Switzerland. Though ETA movement isn’t the best, it supplies a great deal of movements to many famous watch brands. As the common movements, ETA which was born earlier could be called the mature movement since it has been developing. It indeed has incomparable stability and precise durability. Which on earth is better, ETA movement or self-made movement?
It has no definite answer for that, and mostly it depends on movement grade, your propoty and your personal opinoins.
Rolex Caliber 3135

Brand                                                Rolex
Caliber Number                          3135
Movement Type                          Automatic
Jewels                                                 31
Power Reserve                            48 hours
Vibrations                                       Per Hour 28,800
Balance                                             Glucydur
Shock System                                 KIF
Hairspring                                        Nivarox
Features Date                                at 3:00
Country of Manufacture         Switzerland
Known Models                              Submariner; Sea-Dweller, Deepsea; Yacht-Master; Datejust; Datejust II
Rolex Caliber 3135 is honoured as the king of self-winding movements. The caliber 3135 first hit the market in 1988. It is a Certified Chronometer with 31 jewels, and is adjusted for five positions and temperature. The 3135 has approximately 48 hour power reserve, however, some specs listings online have been known to incorrectly round this number up to 50 hours. It has a few design quirks, such as red anodized components, a Breguet hairspring and a winding mechanism in which the axis of the weight segment is stored in synthetic ruby (normally the rotor mechanism is embedded in steel ball bearings). The movement is installed in the models Datejust, Submariner Date, Yacht-Master and in the former model Sea-Dweller 4000, which was produced between 1988 and 2008. The successor Sea-Dweller Deepsea of 2008 also uses a 3135, but with new Parachrom blue hair spring.

Omega Caliber 8500
Brand                                                Omega
Caliber Number                          8500
Movement Type                          Automatic
Jewels                                                39
Power Reserve                             60 hours
Vibrations Per Hour                  25,200bph
Hairspring                                        Silicon Si14
Shock System                                 Nivachoc
Features                                            Co-Axial Escapement, date
Country of Manufacture         Switzerland
Known Models                              Planet Ocean; Aqua Terra Mid Size Chronometer; Co-Axial Chronometer
The launch of the 8500 series of calibres back in 2007 represented an important milestone in the history of Omega brand, helping the Biel based luxury watch producer to reposition itself in the top market range. The in-house developed 8500 series of calibres uses the co-axial escapement mechanism, benefiting from technological benefits of the Daniels’ ‘fix’. The movement’s size has been boosted by 13% compared to the previous 2500 calibres series in order to suit the design of the Omega Seamaster collection. The power supply comes from the two mainspring barrels coated with a special material known within the industry as DLC (Diamond-like carbon). This is an extra feature aimed at eliminating friction.
Patek Philippe Caliber 324
Brand                                  Patek Philippe
Caliber Number                   324SC
Movement Type                  Automatic
Display                                Analog
Jewels                                 29
Power Reserve                   45 hours
Vibrations Per Hour            28,800bph
Hairspring                           Spiromax®
Country of Manufacture      Switzerland
Patek Philippe has developed many self-made movements with high performance since it began to develop self-winding movement in 1953. In 2004, Patek Philippe upgraded Cal.315 automatic movement into Cal.324. The accuracy and stability of Caliber324 are improved by changing the operation efficiency of vibration frequency and optimizing gear. Later Caliber 324 which was equipped with Spiromax® hairspring was passed by Patek Philippe Seal. Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Ref.5068R Ladies’ watch and Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.5127G men’s watch are equipped with Caliber 324SC.