February 2019


If the brand value, price, value preservation and precision and durability are used to evaluate, I believe that such a title will makes fans don’t have opinions. If you have a Rolex, you will support this statement. Although Rolex and Patek Philippe may not be comparable, but if 18238 and 3998 two second-hand watches, there is no box, no tens of thousands of dollars, I will choose the former, the reason is very simple: Rolex is with accurate precision and good endurance, at least the whole body is made of K gold. And the popularity and recognition are greater than the latter.

Rolex GMT-Master II

Rolex has established a good reputation because of its sturdiness and accuracy, and its good waterproof performance. It has also enhanced the brand image and value, which has become the largest brand in the global watch sales base. It is definitely the best place to display in the store. So why can Rolex be so strong? There must be conditions and reasons. From the dealer’s point of view, Rolex price control is good, profit is good, products are fast, no need to introduce too much, especially the discount is fixed, you can quickly deal without bargaining, and from the point of view of Rolex features and technology, it is also worthy of praise.

Rolex 1570 Movement

Rolex’s success is by no means accidental, accurate and durable, strong value-keeping, and high liquidity. In fact, this is the reason why we should explore it. In terms of after-sales maintenance, there is no high-end brand like magnanimity Rolex in the world, which can fully supply parts to dealers, good after-sales service, reasonable fees, and gains recognition from consumers. In fact, only Rolex can create a three-win situation for suppliers, dealers and consumers at the same time, so that it can continue to operate and continue to be a big brother. In terms of function, Rolex is not mysterious, complex, maverick, and feels good like other brands sells at a very expensive price. The general price is also mostly between 5,000 and 10,000 US dollars, which is the price that the general public can afford, so Rolex is the fastest-recovering brand after the financial turmoil.

Rolex Movements Are Equipped With Double-layer Hairspring

Precise and durable, it is synonymous with Rolex. It is finely adjusted by four precision screws on the inside of the balance wheel of the movement (two models are used), and a double-layer spring is arranged to make balance swing more isochronous, greatly improving the accuracy; of course, the most important thing is to have a good design and structure to achieve the best results.

3135 Basic Movement

Rolex’s basic movement 3135 on the inside of the balance wheel four fine-tuning screws is the brand’s innovation and style in the fine-tuning process, the screws are divided into two diagonal and two small, each screw has eight corner teeth, can be used Rolex-specific Micro-Stella to adjust. The spinner has a transparent circular scale with a triangular metal in the middle and the lighter tip always points upward. When fine-tuning the screw against the scale above the ring, just align the octagonal hole of the front end of the trimmer with the octagonal screw of the inner ring of the balance. A large one-frame for 2 seconds, a small one-frame for 1 second, this is a very precise fine-tuning mechanism, which is a fine-tuning of the balance weight. As long as the movement is normal, it is almost invulnerable.

Rolex Exclusive Micro-Stella

It is often common for a watch fan to say that his Rolex watch has a one-second error in a week. In addition, the Rolex movement also has a “axis Micro adjustment” system, the movement of this device is very rare. The role of the “Axis Micro-Tuning Screw” is that after the watch has been used for many years, if the balance is slightly worn, the Micro-tuned spacing can still maintain accurate time, which is rare in high-end brands. The Parachrom® and the Paraflex device, which are equipped with the new watch movement, are more resistant to magnetism and vibration. It’s no wonder that Rolex is the most certified brand by C.O.S.C. every year. Accuracy is the first factor, which is why so many Rolex watch fans are willing to choose it.


Rolex’s unparalleled craftsmanship is truly extraordinary. Since 2001, the men’s 3130 and women’s 2235 movements have been launched. The Oyster series movements are equipped with double-layer hairsprings, such a pioneering work is unprecedented in modern watch brands. When the mechanical watch wave was blown up again in the late 1980s, almost all movements were ring-shaped with a single layer of hairspring, which has the advantage of being mass-produced. Although it also maintains a certain quality, Rolex does not follow the trend. The upward adjustment and the full replacement of the double-layered hairspring not only represent its insistence on the watchmaking process, but also the requirements for precision. The advantage of the double-layered hairspring is that the swinging time of the balance wheel is better, and the contraction and expansion of the spring and summer springs have more space. At the same time, the force points of the various places are average, the direction difference is low, and the accuracy of the time is better. I once thought about it. I randomly selected ten brands including Rolex from the Rolex dealership, and each took out five watches. The average value was obtained under the test of the meter. Rolex’s accuracy definitely ranked first. According to my observation, the Rolex watch in three years is almost a straight line under the meter, and the size is below 0.3. This is the Rolex quality assurance.

In terms of maintaining value, the Rolex brand’s high popularity and identity status make Rolex the favorite of consumers. It is the most liquid brand in the second-hand market. It is also the fastest-changing watch in cash. Into the sports watch, now it is possible to make a small profit, if the second-hand watch is more likely to have a watch fan to take over immediately. It can be seen that it is not unreasonable for Rolex to sell so hot. Everyone is happy to buy it, second-hand market is good, after-sales service is good, consumers buy peace of mind. From the point of view of preservation, quality and function, Rolex is firmly in the position of a brother in the industry. Although the brand value of Patek Philippe is high, it is not affordable for everyone.

7040 Movement Paraflex

7040 Movement Axis Micro-Tuning Screw

Every year, the Swiss watch exhibitions are racking their brains to launch a variety of complex watches. They are afraid that they will not be able to show their strength and will be surpassed by other brands. Various composite functions and all kinds of singular watches will come out and they will be dazzling. Rolex only has to changing the color or material of the outer ring, pushing a new version is enough to surprise the audience and make the fans excited. However, despite this, Rolex still insists on quality and innovation. Like Sky-Dweller, it has won five new patents. The quality brand image it represents has already been impressive. Therefore, I am open-minded, like the price of Rolex, like the quality of Rolex, as well as the high value, rapid liquidity and reasonable price for maintenance, the world can not find a second brand, I believe that all consumers agree with this statement.


Today, let’s talk about the basic knowledge of watch shock resistance that you should know.

First of all, let’s look at the structure and principle of the watch shock absorber. By installing a shock absorber on the swing shaft of the watch, it becomes a shock-resistance watch. In order to improve the vibration accuracy of the balance spring system, the use of a finer shaft diameter is one of the effective measures. The pinch fine energy reduces the frictional resistance of the balance wheel movement, but the thinner journal is easily broken, and the shock absorber is a reasonable device to overcome this disadvantage.

The shock absorber is composed of anti-vibration pedestal, shockproof bowl, spherical arc hole drill, support drill, anti-vibration spring and other main components. The shockproof bowl and the shockproof pedestal are matched by a cone surface, and the anti-vibration spring presses the shockproof bowl by the drill. When the shockproof bowl is off center, due to the elastic force of the anti-vibration spring, the shockproof bowl slides along the smooth cone of the shock pedestal to the original position, this is called the reset performance of the shock absorber and is an important indicator for checking the quality of the shock absorber. Each watch is equipped with two shock absorbers, a shock absorber is on the swing plate, and the other shock absorber is on the main plate. The upper shock absorber is fixed on the swinging plate with a U-shaped pin, and the lower shock absorber is directly pressed into the slot of the main clamping plate. Their structural principles are identical, but the thickness of the drill is different, and the upper anti-drill is 0.09 mm thicker than the lower anti-trailer.

Then, let’s take a look at how the shock absorber protects the pendulum shaft from being broken. It is divided into the following three cases. First, when the watch falls horizontally on the ground, the swing shaft has an axial impact force, causing the swing shaft to move in the axial direction, and the swing shaft moves the drill upwards until the end of the swing shaft contacts the shock mount. During this process, the drill moves upwards to deform the anti-vibration spring. The elastic force of the anti-vibration spring will hinder the rapid movement of the pendulum shaft, and the last remaining impact force will be borne by the end face of the pendulum shaft. Therefore, the force of the anti-vibration spring must be matched with the force that the pendulum journal can withstand. If the anti-vibration spring is too hard during the heat treatment, the pendulum shaft is easily broken when subjected to an external force in this direction.

In the second case, when the watch is dropped vertically on the ground, the pendulum shaft is subjected to a radial impact force, which causes the pendulum shaft to move in the radial direction, and drives the shockproof bowl to move upward along the anti-vibration pedestal cone until the pendulum shaft cylindrical surface contacts the anti-vibration pedestal, the movement stops. Due to the upward movement of the anti-vibration bowl, the anti-vibration spring is deformed, and the movement of the pendulum shaft is also buffered and weakened, and the remaining impact force is borne by the cylindrical surface. In the manufacturing process, if the smoothness of the contact surface between the shockproof bowl and the shockproof pedestal cannot meet the design requirements, the shockproof bowl cannot move upward along the anti-vibration pedestal cone, and the swing journal is easily broken.

In the third case, when the watch is tilted and dropped on the ground, the swing shaft is subjected to an axial and radial mixed impact force, and the above two buffers simultaneously act to weaken the swing shaft motion, and finally the end surface and the cylindrical surface simultaneously bear the remaining impact. Shock absorbers generally come into play when the components of the shock absorber are fully compliant with tolerances. However, the performance of the shock absorber is limited. When the impact force of the watch is large, beyond the effective range, the pendulum shaft, the shock absorber and other components may be damaged.

Then, I will introduce the automatic turning shockproof bowl, anti-vibration pedestal processing. The turning shockproof bowl and the shockproof pedestal are made of lead brass, and the main process is completed on a single-axis slitting automatic lathe. The processing of the anti-vibration spring and the U-shaped pin is based on the stamping of the mold on a precision punching machine, and then deburring, heat treatment, and electroplating. The anti-shock bowl and the anti-vibration seat must be equipped with the required cam according to the shape and dimensional accuracy of each surface, and the tasks of each tool are assigned to determine the processing sequence and adjustment method. Since both the drill and the shockproof bowl rely on the pressure of the anti-vibration spring and are positioned by the taper on the outside of the shockproof bowl and the taper inside the shock mount, the taper finish of both is required to be above 12, and the dimensional accuracy is also high. It is best to use a diamond knife to turn.

Introduction to milling slots. The groove shape of the upper and lower shock absorbers can be divided into the back groove and the surface groove, and can be processed on the horizontal milling machine. The horizontal slot milling machine is manual or automatic. The automatic slot milling machine is mainly equipped with automatic feeder and pusher. Through the clamping and cam action of the clamp, the watch automatically sends the workpiece to the milling driven by the motor. The required groove shape is milled out on the knife, and the milling cutter is made of cemented carbide according to the groove size. The machine tool has a simple structure, but only one or two processes can be completed during the machining process. Due to the continuous reform of machine tools and equipment by workers and technicians, a new multi-station milling machine has been successfully trial-produced. It can automatically process the back, groove and chamfer on the shock absorber and automatically check it, distinguishing between the qualified and unqualified parts of the finished product.

Finally, introduce the assembly of the shock absorber. The assembly of the shock absorber is manual. Before assembly, the shock absorber seat, bowl, spring, etc. are first tested by electroplating and finished products. Both the arc hole drill and the support drill should be treated with oil-proof diffusion and then flow into the assembly department. For the mass assembly of the shock absorber, some vibrating discharge tools should be used. Although it is still a manual operation, it is very efficient.

When it comes to ETA, there are a lot of friends who don’t know what ETA is. Maybe you often hear the letters “ETA”, but don’t know what ETA means? In fact, this is the meaning of the EAT movement. ETA is the world’s largest manufacturer of finished and semi-finished movements. Let’s take a look at the detailed introduction of the EAT movement.

The ETA movement is the cornerstone of Swatch, and its history dates back to the end of the 18th century: a watch factory established in 1793. In 1855, another factory specializing in the manufacture of “Ebauches (semi-finished watch movements)” was opened. It was later named ETA.

As one of the world’s largest manufacturers of watches and movements, its annual output has exceeded 100 million. ETA’s main business is: to ensure the technical research of Swiss watches; to develop accessories for low-cost & large-scale production of movements and whole watches; to master all the technologies of watches and production machines; to assemble movements and watches in batches; ETA self-research and Development.

The ETA movement’s professional skills are consistent and balanced, and it is quite good in terms of stability and durability, and accuracy in travel time. Some people have done statistics. Today, more than 85% of Swiss watches on the market use ETA movements. Among some Swiss brands, such as Ulysse Nardin, IWC, Hublot, Breitling, Panerai, Chopard, Tudor, TAG Heuer, Baume & Mercier, Longines, Titoni, Hamilton, Mido, Tissot, Certina, etc., all of which can be found the trace of in ETA movements.

As one of the world’s largest manufacturers of watch movements, the ETA movement has a strong technical precipitation and strength, and basically covers all the functions of the watch! ETA movements have many models, which are well-known in terms of accuracy, stability and durability. There are five major ETA classic movements.

  1. ETA2892-2 Movement

Now introduce 2892A2, which is considered the ace of ETA2892-2. ETA2892A2 was born in 1980, positioned as a mid-to-high end. The movement is only with 3.6 mm thickness. In terms of thickness alone, the ETA2892A2 movement is far ahead of most of the self-produced movements on the market. In addition to a few brands featuring ultra-thin, there are few automatic winding movements with an organic core thickness of less than 3.6 mm. Due to the excellent performance and precise travel time of the ETA2892A2, the models equipped with this movement are often sold at a high price. A timepiece is with high artistic value. It not only has timekeeping, appreciation and preservation, but also personal taste and identity. Some people pursue brand awareness, and some pay attention to its complexity.

ETA 2892-2

Due to its excellent design and high stability, it is widely used by various brands. The 2892A2 movements has a higher grades. It is often used by well-known mid-priced brands in higher-end models, especially the Chronometer. Even some brands that are listed in the premium watch used, too, but they pay more attention to polished and carved workmanship. At the same time, ETA2892 is one of the most sophisticated and stable models recognized by all watchmakers. It is equipped with a ring-shaped balance wheel, 21 stones, two-way automatic winding, 28800 vibrations per hour, with an “eccentric screw trimmer” for precise fine-tuning.


Because the quality is good, just a little bit can be transformed into a well-designed movement, even the recent popular OMEGA coaxial escapement watch also used the machine that was modified to 1120 based on 2892, and then modified. In addition to the escapement system, the speed is adjusted by the two weight screws on the inner side of the balance wheel. The OMEGA number is 2500, and the number of rubies is increased from 23 (in the 1120) to 27, and four more are installed separately in pallet, balance wheel and transmission wheel (2 pieces). Like the ULYSSE NARDIN watch, the timepiece trilogy set astronomical watch also uses 2892 as the basic movement, becoming an ultra-small and complex astronomical watch, called the greatest masterpiece of the ULYSSE NARDIN watch. In Cartier, IWC, Longines, Montblanc, Ball, Juvenia and other brands, you can often find the ETA2892-2 movement.

  1. ETA7750 Movement

The ETA7750 is another proud model. Its predecessor was the Valjoux 7750; Valjoux is a well-known movement manufacturer, especially famous for its complex chronograph movement. The ROLEX manual winding Daytona is equipped with its 72 movement, making it a hot watch today. Valjoux 7750 was created in 1974. It was originally designed with only 17 stones and was later changed to 25 stones. After the acquisition of ETA in the 1980s, few people now use the term Valjoux, unless those movements produced before the merger in the 1980s used the old name. ETA 7750 was released on July 1, 1974, and became the model that ETA is proud of. It has been used in various brands of self-winding chronographs and complex function watches for many years. The standard 7750 features 17 rubies, 42 hours of energy storage, 28,800 vibrations per hour, a one-way winding design, the same fine-tuning device with the same principle as the eccentric screw, and a scale indicator for fine-tuning operation.


  1. ETA2824-2 Movement

If the ETA2892A2 is customized for the high-end market, then the ETA2824-2 is designed to meet the darling of the low-end market. The structure of the ETA2824-2 is slightly thicker than the ETA2892A2. The upper chain is simpler than the ETA2892A2, and the three screws fixed changes to a single screw. This method lets the ETA2824-2 never have the drawback of insufficient winding.


The self-winding movement with a calendar equipped in this watch was introduced in the 1970s, with a diameter of 25.6 mm and a thickness of 4.6 mm. It contains 25 jewel bearings and has 38 hours of power reserve. The jewel bearing, also known as artificial ruby, has a very hard texture. The Moh’s scale of hardness is up to 9, second only to diamonds. It is mainly used in the shaft end, the pawl and the escapement parts of the movement, which has the effect of reducing friction. At the same time, it also has aesthetic decoration.


Based on the ETA2824-2, the movement is “transformed” and becomes ETA2834-2 or ETA2836-2 after the calendar and the week module are installed. According to blogger’s experience, if a watch equipped with an ETA movement has a day and calendar window at 3 o’clock, most of it is ETA2836-2, and if the day time is separated from the calendar, such as the week window is at 12 o’clock, the calendar window is at the 3 o’clock or 6 o’clock position, it is mostly ETA 2834-2. ETA2824-2 and its derivative movements are often seen in many popular Swiss brands such as Tissot, Mido, Plum, Tudor, TAG Heuer, Baume, Breitling, Hamilton and other brands. They are generally polished on the oscillating weight and engraved with the brand logo.


  1. ETA6497 Movement

Unitas’ classic 6497, originally used for pocket watches, is a hand-wound movement. After being acquired by ETA, it was naturally classified under the ETA. After the quartz storm that suffocated the Swiss in the 1980s, the 6497 became the last large-size pocket watch movement. In the circumstances, the 6497 was difficult to use, since it is too big. Every dog has its day, this calibre achieves a considerable height in terms of precision with its own “big appearance”, and it is simple in structure and easy to maintain. Originally the movement was unknown, the 6497 ushered in its own spring, because the big size watch was coming, and with the rise of Panerai, the size of the 6497 catered to the needs of almost all large cases. Because the 6497 is large and reasonable in structure, it is surprisingly accurate in terms of accuracy. Although it is only a low-frequency pendulum of 18000A/H, it can easily pass the COSC certification, and many other high-frequency movements are defeated. It can be said that ETA6497 has its current status, Panerai is indispensable.


  1. ETA7001 Movement

ETA7001 can be said to be a summary of the traditional Swiss watch road. It is also a hand-wound movement, but looks small and exquisite, unlike the 6497. Since the size of the 7001 is much smaller than 6497, the swing frequency is also raised from 18000A/H of the 6497 to 21600A/H. Some people always think that it is more perfect to reduce the swing frequency of the 7001 from 21600A/H to 18000A/H.

Like the classic combination of the ETA2892A2 and the ETA2824-2, the ETA7001 is a great complement to the field of small-calibre hand-wound movements. People have to admire the power of the ETA movement since it firmly controls the movement of the watch.

If Breguet, Glashutte Original, Omega, Jaquet Droz and other brands are the top brands of the Swatch Group and prop up the entire Swatch Group, then ETA is the real reinforced concrete foundation within the entire group. ETA is not only responsible for the development of the movement itself, but also responsible for the design and development of its own production equipment. From ideas, to design, R&D, a small amount of testing, mass production, and to quality control, ETA controls the entire process in an orderly manner.