It is well known that the core of the watch lies in the movement, which is as important as the heart of the human body. The movement greatly determines the performance of a watch. Here a brief talk on the features of ETA movement and three types of self-made movements helps you know about watches more or less.

ETA movement

ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse is the largest manufacturer in manufacturing finished movements and semi-finished movements all over the world. ETA monopolizes more than 85% movement output in Switzerland. Though ETA movement isn’t the best, it supplies a great deal of movements to many famous watch brands. As the common movements, ETA which was born earlier could be called the mature movement since it has been developing. It indeed has incomparable stability and precise durability. Which on earth is better, ETA movement or self-made movement?

It has no definite answer for that, and mostly it depends on movement grade, your propoty and your personal opinoins.

Rolex Caliber 3135

Brand                                                Rolex
Caliber Number                          3135
Movement Type                          Automatic
Jewels                                                 31
Power Reserve                            48 hours
Vibrations                                       Per Hour 28,800
Balance                                             Glucydur
Shock System                                 KIF
Hairspring                                        Nivarox
Features Date                                at 3:00
Country of Manufacture         Switzerland
Known Models                              Submariner; Sea-Dweller, Deepsea; Yacht-Master; Datejust; Datejust II
Rolex Caliber 3135 is honoured as the king of self-winding movements. The caliber 3135 first hit the market in 1988. It is a Certified Chronometer with 31 jewels, and is adjusted for five positions and temperature. The 3135 has approximately 48 hour power reserve, however, some specs listings online have been known to incorrectly round this number up to 50 hours. It has a few design quirks, such as red anodized components, a Breguet hairspring and a winding mechanism in which the axis of the weight segment is stored in synthetic ruby (normally the rotor mechanism is embedded in steel ball bearings). The movement is installed in the models Datejust, Submariner Date, Yacht-Master and in the former model Sea-Dweller 4000, which was produced between 1988 and 2008. The successor Sea-Dweller Deepsea of 2008 also uses a 3135, but with new Parachrom blue hair spring.

Omega Caliber 8500

Brand                                                Omega

Caliber Number                          8500

Movement Type                          Automatic

Jewels                                                39

Power Reserve                             60 hours

Vibrations Per Hour                  25,200bph

Hairspring                                        Silicon Si14

Shock System                                 Nivachoc

Features                                            Co-Axial Escapement, date

Country of Manufacture         Switzerland

Known Models                              Planet Ocean; Aqua Terra Mid Size Chronometer; Co-Axial Chronometer

The launch of the 8500 series of calibres back in 2007 represented an important milestone in the history of Omega brand, helping the Biel based luxury watch producer to reposition itself in the top market range. The in-house developed 8500 series of calibres uses the co-axial escapement mechanism, benefiting from technological benefits of the Daniels’ ‘fix’. The movement’s size has been boosted by 13% compared to the previous 2500 calibres series in order to suit the design of the Omega Seamaster collection. The power supply comes from the two mainspring barrels coated with a special material known within the industry as DLC (Diamond-like carbon). This is an extra feature aimed at eliminating friction.

Patek Philippe Caliber 324

Brand                                  Patek Philippe

Caliber Number                   324SC

Movement Type                  Automatic

Display                                Analog

Jewels                                 29

Power Reserve                   45 hours

Vibrations Per Hour            28,800bph

Hairspring                           Spiromax®

Country of Manufacture      Switzerland

Patek Philippe has developed many self-made movements with high performance since it began to develop self-winding movement in 1953. In 2004, Patek Philippe upgraded Cal.315 automatic movement into Cal.324. The accuracy and stability of Caliber324 are improved by changing the operation efficiency of vibration frequency and optimizing gear. Later Caliber 324 which was equipped with Spiromax® hairspring was passed by Patek Philippe Seal. Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Ref.5068R Ladies’ watch and Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.5127G men’s watch are equipped with Caliber 324SC.